MYTH The villages of Oia, Fira and Imerovigli, phosphorescent white cubes under the fires of the setting sun, are pictures of postcards, hung on the cliff, atop the Aegean Sea. If clichés become clichés, it is because they are obvious: Santorini is breathtakingly beautiful.

REALITY Ultra-touristic. You will not be alone in drinking a glass of resin at Oia at sunset. At the tavern, you will be presented your menu in English, French, Chinese, German. But you will discover what you came for: a desire for Greek islands and nothing else, between dolce vita, noisy cagnar and royal blue even in your dreams. One of the most beautiful views in the world, indigo 360 °.

THE SECRET PLACES AIR CINEMA KAMARI The outdoor cinema of Kamari is a truly great experience. New American films, subtitled in Greek, are screened, with popcorn and ice cream sold, as in the cinema. Except that this one is huddled in the heart of a beautiful garden, under the stars. Well, it is located near the airport, so the whirring of a jet on takeoff can remind you that you are on land, that is part of the charm.

THE HIDDEN CHAPEL behind the rocky peak, facing Imerovigli: one reaches it by a path that starts from the caldera, under the hotels hung on the cliff. Neither bars nor tourists, just the sunset, alone in the world facing the big blue.

THEROS WAVE BAR The chic casual beach bar is hard to find. It is reached after following a track that slips through the sublime sand-colored volcanic rocks. And at the end of the trail, the bar, on the Eros beach, 2 m from the water, decorated with wood and volcanic stones. Magic. (From Fira, follow the road towards Perissa, turn right at the sign: Vlychada.) Www.theroswavebar.gr .

WHERE TO STAY HELIOTOPOS HOTEL Perched on the highest point of the caldera (cliff), in Imerovigli, it is a hotel as we like them: refined but not bling, with perfect comfort but not dripping luxury. The "touch" of the owner, Lila Konstantinidou, between attention and just distance, makes it an address where guests return each year. The pool is tiny, but the charm prevails. All rooms have sea view, some with a large terrace. Studios from 360 € between 13 June and 20 September. www.hotel.heliotopos.net .

VOLCANO VIEW HOTEL The largest hotel Santorini is a friendly resort of eighty-five rooms, with three swimming pools. The rooms, with international standard décor, all have a small terrace with views of the volcano. A good solution when there is more room in charming hotels. Rooms starting at € 390. www. volcano-view.com .

THE MYTH Alonissos is bathed by the crystal clear waters of Europe's largest marine reserve. Created in 1992 to preserve the monk seal, threatened with disappearance, it benefits the swimmers: one finds there the purest water of the Aegean Sea.

THE REALITY On the beach side, peaceful coves invite you to relax. This protected area is the playground for many species, and it is not uncommon to see dolphins jumping away. On the land side, hiking trails that wind through the maquis where small churches hide, such as the tiny Agia Anargiri, lead to contemplation. Only a few walkers disturb the tranquility of the lives, crossed near the orchards and olive groves overlooking the sea. As a bonus, the island is covered with fig trees that cover the roads.

STENI VALA SECRET ENDOITS This fishing village of about thirty people, which saw its first tourists land only a few years ago, has kept its soul. To taste fresh fish, there is no better place than one of the taverns that dominate the marina.

LEFTOS GIALOS This small cove, accessible by foot or by water taxi, is undoubtedly the most beautiful beach on the island. At any time of the day, you can stroll in the pretty Eleonas tavern to sip an ouzo accompanied by tiropita, laminated with typical cheese, facing the sea. Nikos, the owner, also produces his own wine. www.eleonasalonissos.gr.

PALÉA ALONISSOS With its colorful doors and staircases, the stone alleys of the old village offer a decor typical of the Greek islands. Some stray cats will surely accompany you on the way to the beaches of Megalos Mourtias, Vithisma and Marpounta, below. In the evening, go to Hayati, a confectionery that turns into a piano bar. Their souvlakis are delicious, and the view, hypnotic.

WHERE TO STAY ALYA SUITES Chic without being ostentatious, this hotel located on the beach of Glyfa, just above Steni Vala, is a place of peace. Only a few elected officials can stay there, since it includes only two suites and a villa, immersed around a private garden. From 80 € the suite for two, and 170 € the villa for four. Open from June to September. www.ilyasuites.gr .

ALONISSOS BEACH With its tennis courts, swimming pool, spa, fitness room and large restaurant, this resort, located not far from the beach of Chrisi Milia, offers all the comforts of a resort. From 76 € the double room. www.alonissosbeach.com .