When Maria Grazia Chiuri presented her "We should all be feminist" t-shirt on Dior's podium for her very first collection for the French fashion house in October 2016, the Italian designer instantly revived the flame of t-shirt engaged. Since then, we have witnessed a wave of feminist t-shirts, many influenced by the coming to power of Donald Trump, but also the appearance of a pro-European sweatshirt at Vetements and many other examples of politically engaged fashion, most often through the slogan t-shirt.
Feminist message t-shirt from the Dior Spring / Summer 2017 show. Photo Credit: Catwalking / Getty Images
Although Maria Grazia Chiuri did not invent the message t-shirt, it is also not just another u-shaped return to the 90s. In reality, these clothes that allow us to send - more or less subtly - messages, exist since the 1960s.
This is the subject of the latest exhibition of the Fashion & Textile Museum in London entitled "T-Shirt: Culture | Culture | Subversion", inaugurated on February 9, which traces the revolution of the t-shirt through 200 pieces archive, hoping to show how simple words on a garment can contribute to social and cultural change.
It all began in London, in the midst of the Swinging Sixties era, when a boutique called Mr Freedom on the famous King's Road shopping street in Chelsea sold Disney-inspired slogan t-shirts. The next decade, the eccentric Vivienne Westwood pushed the trend a little further with her politically engaged t-shirts, but it was actually in the 80s that the message t-shirt took off with the creations of the stylist British Katharine Hamnett.
The designer Katharine Hamnett in one of her political message t-shirts in 1987. Photo credit: David Corio / Getty Images
"This t-shirt gave me a voice," she said, remembering the moment she shook hands with British Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher as she wore a t-shirt that said: "58% do not want Pershing ", thus protesting against nuclear power. This act made Katharine Hamnett's creations unavoidable and the idea was copied everywhere, from the "Choose Life" t-shirt worn by George Michael in the "Wake me up before you go" video to the one inspired by the Frankie group. Goes To Hollywood printed lyrics "Frankie says relax".
"The slogans work at different levels, they are almost subliminal. They are also a way for people to join a cause, "Katharine Hamnett told The Guardian.
Feminist message T-shirt from Prabal Gurung Fall / Winter 2017-2018 Parade. Photo credit: Marcelo Soubhia / Getty Images
Today, this idea of posting a political message on our clothes has not disappeared. Since the Dior "We should all be feminists" t-shirt, many other brands, including Vetements, DKNY, Alexander Wang and Prabal Gurung , have also relied on the slogan t-shirt to get their messages across.
Source: marieclaire.com
