Aurélie Bidermann is an exception in the anonymous circle of artistic directors of jewelery houses. Made famous by her braid gold braided cotton for her own brand, she officiated since late 2016 at Poiray. The Heart Catcher, his first collection for the jeweler of the Place Vendôme, revisits the intertwined heart. Pretzel style, its rounded gold borders embrace the purity of the diamond , the shades of opal, turquoise or lapis lazuli. "Poiray has his own DNA. I respect him while bringing freshness and joy. This heart that has existed for a long time, I wanted to make it even more desirable, "says the designer.
Photo credit: Cyrille Robin
Passionate about art history, Aurélie Bidermann first embraces a career as an auctioneer at Sotheby's. But if the works scroll, the creative side is missing. "I loved what I did, but there was this frustration of not creating with my own hands. So I took a training in gemology in Antwerp, then I learned the technique at the BJO, rue du Louvre, before launching my brand in 2004, "she says. In the same way as Matisse's cut papers or Peter Doig's paintings, his creations for Poiray combine pure lines and vibrant colors. Like painting in painting, the jewel is for her a window open on history. "Every piece of jewelry that is appropriated has its own story, plus the ones we write when we wear it," she says.
Photo credit: Cyrille Robin
For her second collection at Poiray, Lolita de Nabokov succeeds Salinger's novel. "These are stories we read from childhood. "Passed in the 16th arrondissement, his own is full of precious memories. "My grandmother had sumptuous fine jewelery . I loved to play with his Van Cleef & Arpels compact powder car in pink gold engraved with a pond and ducks encrusted with enamels. The jewel is a very personal sentimental object, I am very attached to it. Later, those of my grandmother or my mother will be passed on to my daughter because they symbolize a lot. "
In the Lolita collection, alone or in charm-like fashion, moonstone, citrine, garnet, topaz or smoky quartz pendants, rings and earrings cater to all generations of women. Their basic geometric shapes are timeless. "I wanted to do some fun things to wear in T-shirts and evening dresses," she says. A vision of gay and uninhibited luxury that will be expressed in the spring on the Ma Préférence ring, the Ma Première watch, and fine jewelery. Because if the jewel must satisfy the senses, Aurélie Bidermann continues to infuse him, at the jeweler who has dedicated, the lightness at the origin of its success.
