It began with the packaging: tubes in the shape of syringes to house anti-aging formulas, cannulas to specify the application of an anti-impurities treatment, flat tips loaded with smoothing wrinkles, lights of the third type to boost anti-aging active ingredients ... Beyond the simple wink of design, labs have developed a real "instrumental" cosmetic that sometimes borrows from science fiction and seduces more and more.

Makeup of the eyes: mascaras, brushes as important as the texture

In the burgeoning segment of mascaras, for some seasons, engineers have invented ever more unpredictable brushes. In ball or, conversely, hyper fine, slightly curved but also rectilinear, heart-shaped and even butterfly wings, they are flexible, rigid, provided, bald ... These tips are specially designed to exaggerate the volumizing impression of a texture or to increase the lengthening effect of another. "The labs develop the brush and the formula at the same time," insists Sylvie Guichard, head of scientific communications research and innovation of the L'Oreal group.The applicator must accompany the performance of the mascara, act in synergy with the texture. , the so-called "classic" brushes, made of fibers on a metal rod, are mainly used with brush-effect formulas that shape and form. While those, increasingly widespread, spiked and molded in the elastomer rather allow to play on the distribution of mascara and the lengthening of the eyelash.

As well as its material, the shape of the applicator is also decisive. " We work in 3D, explains Sylvie Guichard, sometimes using the same software as for car bodies, they allow to understand the entire course of the eyelash through the tip, to perceive the troughs that will deposit the material or parts" in hooks "that will catch the eyelashes." Thus, the latest Papillon brush signed L'Oreal Paris has an asymmetrical ergonomics that allows to imprison all eyelashes to deploy them to the maximum. " Its structure is unprecedented, confirms Philippe Thuvien, packaging and development director of the group.It is not full but composed of arches that increase the load on the brush." Inseparable from the texture, the container becomes as important as the content. So put forward that some even have a name. Like the Wave Curl brush from the latest Diorshow mascara. Slightly curved and supported by the rich polymer formula "shape memory", it marries the eyelid to print the curve. As for the last Chanel applicator, it has been christened Snowflakes because of its small discs stacked on top of each other, which alternate long and rigid pimples, to coat, and shorter and flexible pimples, loaded, them, to separate and to multiply.

The choice of VB:

Solid and stiff fibers for combing and lengthening: High Impact Waterproof Clinic Mascara.
An elastomeric comb that grabs the root to deposit the lengthening complex before stretching the make-up: Sisley's So Intense Mascara.
A curved brush inspired by the lash-styling of backstage makeup: Iconic Overcurl Diorshow Mascara by Christian Dior.
Asymmetric, the brush allows to deploy all the eyelashes towards the outer corner of the eye: False Eyelash Mascara Butterfly of L'Oreal Paris.
A Snowflakes brush associated with a volumizing formula to expand to the maximum: Mascara Volume Chanel.

Care of the eye: contours of the eyes, tools that reinforce the formula

Especially the boom of eye contours with integrated roll-on that catches the eye. The advantage of these small balls? To accentuate the decongestant properties of the treatment thanks to the cold effect of the metal on the skin. Thus, at Sisley , the new Phyto-Dark Circles eye contour formula is applied with a zamak mouthpiece. "This alloy of zinc, aluminum, magnesium and copper gives an immediate sensation of freshness," explains Anne Chamoyan, head of makeup marketing for the brand.The tip will thus allow a first vasoconstrictor effect and initiate the benefits of care. Draining assets (red vine, arnica flower and ginkgo biloba) to take over.

But, far from being appreciated solely for their cool effect, these applicators are also used to promote massage. As an extension of the hand, they allow to "work" the skin more precisely. Here again, the shape counts just as much as the metal used. For his futuristic care Génifique Eyes Light-PearlTM, Lancôme has, for example, fashioned a sort of oblong droplet (first chiseled by polishing with ceramics and porcelain then smoothed by diamond powder) which has, in prime, a 50 degree rotation angle to sneak into every nook and cranny. Same approach at Carita, which, to accompany the anti-aging assets of its program Eye Diamant de Beauté, offers not just a spatula but a baguette with a round one end massaging, on the other a beveled handle for pressures. Smaller than the pulp of the finger, these new generation applicators facilitate the gesture and accompany the lift formulas. A principle that is also found, on another scale, in many slimming treatments with roll-on metal applicators that increase the effects of massage.

The choice of VB:

The mobile bead facilitates the massage of the formula defatigante: Génifique Eyes Light-PearlTM of Lancôme.
A double-ended applicator to use according to a specific gesture to increase the smoothing effect: Elixir Eyes Anti-Aging Day and Concentrated Eyes Anti-Aging Night Diamond Beauty Carita.
A hybrid formula between care (it drains) and make-up (it camouflages) to apply with the iced tip and spread with the attached brush: PhytoCernes Sisley Shard.
Three massage balls that stimulate tissues to prepare for destocking: Cellu Destock Expert from Vichy.

Care: When advanced technology interferes

To boost their formulas, some brands go even further and call for the rescue of advanced technologies. After launching a "wrinkle compressor" pimple roller to apply its Mesothérapist treatment, Filorga has just put on the market an anti-aging kit that includes a revitalizing treatment and, above all, a funny device designed to boost its effectiveness. Imitating the shape of a computer mouse, this tool called "light generator" is equipped with thirteen LEDs. Just apply the care on the skin, then select on the device one of the three light waves according to the priority (firmness, imperfections, shine) and then put the tool on the face by moving it for eight minutes and emphasizing the areas to be treated. A real stimulator of youth.

The young brand Ioma , she decided to integrate a chip in the hood of its anti-wrinkle care. By placing this sensor on the face for five seconds, a system of LEDs makes it possible to evaluate the rate of dehydration. Up to three LEDs on, one application per day is enough; beyond three, two applications are recommended. More than a gadget, these microsensors Mems are the same as those that equip the laser module Curiosity robot sent to Mars to measure the gases of the atmosphere and rocks. A high technology that seduced because, just two months after this launch, Ioma stocks were stormed.

The choice of VB:

Improve the effectiveness of the Anti-Aging Led-Booster Care thanks to the light: Filorga's Lumithérapist.
Moisturize as much as you can with a high-tech sensor: Ioma Youth Booster 3.